Flint and Tinder
American Reserve Selvedge Jean - Vintage Straight
American Reserve Selvedge Jean - Vintage Straight
Story
A reserve collection of USA-made, deadstock Cone Mills 1968 selvedge denim—limited to under 200 pairs
When an El Paso, Texas garment factory shut down, our Design Director, Nick Kemp, got a text from a friend that there were a few vintage sewing machines left behind up for grabs. Rather than leaving with machinery for his personal workshop, he returned home with untouched rolls of 1968 Cone Mills White Oak denim, still preserved in their original factory wrapping.
Finding this deadstock yardage was a rare piece of luck. Before closing permanently in 2017, Cone Mills was the last major selvedge denim mill in the United States. For over a century, they set the standard for American manufacturing, and this rigid, 60s-era fabric is archival proof of their prominence. It’s also Nick’s preferred vintage.
“The 1968 quality was always my favorite denim that the White Oak plant produced,” he said. “It’s incredibly nostalgic for me because it was the very first selvedge denim I ever purchased back when I was young and just learning how to sew. I jumped at the opportunity to secure it, knowing this was likely my last chance to get my hands on a genuine piece of history.”
Woven on hulking, 1940s Draper X3 shuttle looms, the resulting fabric has a tangible character and noticeable texture that modern, high-speed machines can’t replicate. Nick turned his historic find into a limited batch of jeans and trucker jackets, making just under 200 of each. Claim a pair while you can—once this limited reserve collection is gone, it’s gone for good.
Features
- Crafted in the USA from deadstock Cone Mills 1968 selvedge denim
- Rigid 100% cotton construction will earn a personalized patina over time
- Cut in a Vintage Straight Fit for a classic shape with a little extra room through the leg
- Finished with a custom leather patch
- Classic 5-pocket construction
Fit & Sizing
- Features a Vintage Straight Fit with a classic shape and slightly more room through the leg; take your usual denim size
- For the best personal fit, compare the measurements of one of your best-fitting pants or jeans to the garment measurements below
Garment Measurements
| 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 |
| Thigh | 24 | 24½ | 25 | 25½ | 26 | 26½ | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30¼ | 31½ | 32¾ |
| Leg Opening | 14½ | 14⅞ | 15¼ | 15⅝ | 16 | 16¼ | 16½ | 17 | 17½ | 18 | 18½ | 19 |
All measurements are in inches.
How to Measure - Waist: Align the front and back waistbands so they’re stacked on top of each other, then measure from edge to edge across the middle of the waistband, multiply by 2 - Thigh: Starting 1" below the crotch seam, measure straight across from edge to edge (not from seam to seam) - Leg Opening: Measure across the bottom hem from edge to edge - Inseam: Measure from the crotch seam down to the bottom of the leg hem, following along the inside of the leg
Materials & Care
This deadstock denim is a relic of the Cone Mills White Oak Plant in Greensboro, North Carolina. Founded in 1905, White Oak was once the largest denim mill in the world—and the last major denim mill in the USA when it closed its doors in 2017. It was woven on vintage Draper X3 shuttle looms from the 1940s. These machines sat on original heart-pine floors, and the vibration of the looms on the wood created slight, organic inconsistencies in the weave, giving the denim a unique "chatter" and character that modern, high-speed machines cannot achieve.
- 100% 13.5oz Cotton
- Machine wash cold inside out with like colors, do not bleach, tumble dry low and remove promptly or line dry, warm iron if needed
